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Jan. 2017 garden Calendar

12/31/2016

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JANUARY GARDEN CHECKLIST
  • A herbicide containing glyphosate can be used on dormant bermudagrass lawns in January or February when temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit for winter weed control. Make sure your bermuda lawn is completely dormant or you will damage it.
  • January through February is a good time of year to move plants from one location in the landscape to another. Water and mulch transplanted plants well.
  • More on trees. Remove grass and maintain 3’ to 4’ diameter of grass free area around young trees. Many research studies have all come to the same conclusion, that eliminating competition from around the immediate area of the tree contributes to a dramatic increase in growth of the tree. Keep a 2 to 3 inch layer mulch in this grass free area.
  • Staking newly planted trees is recommended for large trees however, stakes should be removed after the first growing season. Stakes should be loose to allow the tree to sway in the wind. Trees allowed to sway develop a stronger root system and a sturdier trunk.
  • A word on watering trees. Water as needed but let the soil dry down somewhat between irrigation. Waterlogged soils kill many tree species. Remember, plant roots need to have fresh air to breath, they will drown as you would in a bucket of water.
  • Winter is pruning time for most landscape trees. You may need to remove lower limbs of young trees each winter as it matures. Ideally you would want your lowest limb six feet from the ground. Do any corrective pruning while trees are young, removing narrow crotch angles, double forks, etc. Remember to cut limbs back to the trunk leaving only the small ridge. No sealants are necessary. You can expect a wound from a 1 inch limb to heal over by the second year after cutting if not by the end of the first year. Larger wounds will take longer to seal.
  • Vegetable gardens need to be cleaned up if you haven’t done so. Winter cleanup reduces insect and disease pressure for the coming growing season. This refuse probably needs to stay out of the compost pile. Our compost piles may not get hot enough to kill harmful pathogens. Asparagus stalks can be cut back and beds need a new layer of compost (2 to 3 inches).
  • Till garden plots without a cover crop to expose overwintering insects to the winters cold. Do not till when soil moisture is high causing clods to form. Incorporate compost, animal manures, etc. at the same time to garden plots needing organic matter.
  • This winter, remove bagworm bags from shrubs which were infested this past summer. Eggs were deposited within the bags by female worms, shortly before they died. Physically removing and destroying the bags will reduce or eliminate problems this summer.
  • Winter months are an ideal time to submit soil samples to our office. The accuracy of the soil test is a reflection of the sample taken. Be sure the sample is representative of the area to be treated. As a general rule pull soil from 15-20 random spots of area to be tested at a depth of four to six inches. Mix these samples together and submit a pint of soil for testing. You are not limited to the number of samples submitted. Test results will be returned to you within two to three weeks of being submitted.
  • This is a good time of year to cut poison ivy vines from trees at the ground level and paint the cut end with full strength Brush-B-Gon or glyphosate. Handle vines with plastic gloves and wash up thoroughly to avoid itching results.
  • Avoid the temptation to fertilize houseplants during the winter months unless they are under grow lights or very high light conditions.
  • When the temperatures are below freezing, avoid much contact with plant material outside. Frozen plants are brittle, and limbs can be broken easily. If ice or snow are on your plants, use caution around them. Heavy loads of snow can be lightly brushed off, but stay away from ice-laden plants. You can't remove the ice without breaking off branches.
  • Mulch strawberry beds now with straw. Keep the straw off the crowns. The straw will keep fruit from touching the soil and rotting.

For more information contact Mark D. Keaton
County Extension Agent
Extension office at 425-2335.




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White bean and turkey chili

12/20/2016

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Crowd-pleasing white bean chili calls for canned beans and chicken broth, making prep convenient.


Yield: 8 servings (serving size: about 1 cup)
Cook: 20 minutes


Ingredients
  • 1 tablespoon canola oil
  • 2 cups diced yellow onion (about 2 medium)
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons chili powder
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 3 (15.8-ounce) cans Great Northern beans, rinsed and drained
  • 4 cups fat-free, less-sodium chicken broth
  • 3 cups chopped cooked turkey
  • 1/2 cup diced seeded plum tomato (about 1)
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 8 lime wedges (optional)
​Preparation
  • Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion; sauté 10 minutes or until tender and golden. Add chili powder, garlic, and cumin; sauté for 2 minutes. Add oregano and beans; cook for 30 seconds. Add broth; bring to a simmer. Cook 20 minutes.
  • Place 2 cups of bean mixture in a blender or food processor, and process until smooth. Return pureed mixture to pan. Add turkey, and cook 5 minutes or until thoroughly heated. Remove from heat. Add diced tomato, chopped cilantro, lime juice, salt, and pepper, stirring well. Garnish with lime wedges, if desired.
Source: Cooking Light November 2006
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english ivy

12/20/2016

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With lobed leaves and lush, trailing vines, English Ivy is a beautiful accent plant. It blends beautifully in a dish garden, adding texture to a variety of tropical plants. Ivy is a vigorous grower with strong, wiry stems densely covered with distinctive foliage.  Although commonly grown as a hanging plant indoors, its aerial roots can easily be trained to climb a moss stick or trellis.

There are hundreds of types of ivy varieties -- some with plain green leaves, others are variegated with yellow, gold or creamy white.

Green Thumb Tip

Keep this plant away from heat vents, which will dry out its leaves. Ivy thrives with moist air and soil.
  • Dry leaves? Cool, moist air and evenly moist soil will help your English Ivy thrive indoors. Protect it from drafts. Mist the plant often to keep its leaves from drying out. Misting also helps to keep away spider mites that love to attack this plant.
  • Prune it back, if you want to keep your ivy plant to a desired length. Light pruning can be done any time of year.
  • Shed some light. Growing ivy with plenty of bright light will help variegated ivies to keep their color. Prune off any stems of variegated ivy that reverts to all green.
  • CAUTION: English ivy leaves are poisonous if eaten and it can cause skin irritation. It's a good idea to wear gloves while handling this plant.

​Tips for Growing English Ivy House Plants
Origin:
 Europe
  • Height: It will climb as high as it is allowed to.
  • Light: Bright light, but no direct sun. Ivy thrives under fluorescent light. If a variegated variety changes to mostly green, it isn't getting enough light.
  • Water: Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy spring through fall; slightly drier in winter.
  • Humidity: Raise the humidity by misting with water or standing the plant on a tray of wet pebbles.
  • Temperature: Cool to average room temperatures 50-70°F/10-21°C
  • Soil: Soilless potting mix or any that provides good drainage.
  • Fertilizer: Feed monthly from spring through fall with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer.
  • Propagation: Take 3-4 in (8-10 cm) stem tip cuttings in spring and root in moist soil or water.
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kahlua cake

12/18/2016

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        This cake  is easy to make and makes
         a lovely desert when served with a
         nice cup of rich coffee.
        Oven: 350 degrees
        Bake: 60 minutes

Ingredients:
  • 1 package Duncan Hines
  • 1 6 ounce package vanilla instant pudding
  • 1 8 ounce carton sour cream
  • 4 eggs
  • 3/4 cup oil
  • 3/4 cup Kahlua Liqueur
  • 1 small package semi-sweet chocolate chips
Instructions:
  • Mix first 6 ingredients well. Fold in chocolate chips.
  • Pour into oiled and floured bundt pan.
  • Bake at 350 degrees for one hour.
  • ​Remove from pan and sprinkle cake with powdered sugar.
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Seed catalogs

12/12/2016

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You have put your garden at rest for the winter.
Now it's time to check out all the seed catalogs and plan your spring garden.


WEB SITES
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds
2278 Baker Creek Rd.
Mansfield, MO 65704
417-924-8917
www.rareseeds.com
Catalog free.
Baker’s Acres Greenhouse
3388 Castle Rd.
Alexandria, OH 43001
800-934-6525
www.bakersacresgreenhouse.com
Free e-catalog on Web site.
Bluestone Perennials
7211 Middle Ridge Rd.
Madison, OH 44057
800-852-5243
www.bluestoneperennials.com
Catalog free.
Brent and Becky’s Bulbs
7900 Daffodil Ln.
Gloucester, VA 23061
877-661-2852
www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com
Catalog free.
W. Atlee Burpee & Co.
300 Park Ave.
Warminster, PA 18974
800-888-1447
www.burpee.com
Catalog free.
Busse Gardens
17160 245th Ave.
Big Lake, MN 55309
800-544-3192
www.bussegardens.com
Free online catalog.
DP Seeds
8269 E. Hwy. 95
Yuma, AZ 85365
928-341-8494
www.dpseeds.com
Dutch Gardens
4 Currency Dr.
P.O. Box 2999
Bloomington, IL 61702
800-944-2250
www.dutchgardens.com
Catalog free.
Fieldstone Gardens
55 Quaker Ln.
Vassalboro, ME 04989
207-923-3836
www.fieldstonegardens.com
Online catalog.
Gilbert H. Wild & Son
3044 State Hwy. 37
Reeds, MO 64859
417-548-3514
gilberthwild.com
Free catalog.
Henry Field’s Seed & Nursery Co.
P.O. Box 397
Aurora, IN 47001-0397
513-354-1494
www.henryfields.com
Catalog free.
Johnny’s Selected Seeds

P.O. Box 299
Waterville, ME 04903
877-564-6697
www.johnnyseeds.com
Catalog free.
J.W. Jung Seed Co.
335 S. High St.
Randolph, WI 53956
800-297-3123
www.jungseed.com
Online and free catalog.
Klehm’s Song Sparrow Farm & Nursery
13101 E. Rye Rd.
Avalon, WI 53505
800-553-3715
songsparrow.com
Nature Hills Nursery
9910 N 48th St, Suite 200
Omaha, NE 68152
(888) 864-7663
www.naturehills.com
New England Seed Company (NESeed)
3580 Main Street, Building #10
Hartford, CT 06120
800-825-5477
www.neseed.com
Catalog Free.
Nichols Garden Nursery
1190 Old Salem Rd. NE
Albany, OR 97321-4580
800-422-3985
www.nicholsgardennursery.com
Online catalog.
Old House Gardens
536 Third St.
Ann Arbor, MI 48103
734-995-1486
www.oldhousegardens.com
Catalog $2.
Park Seed Company
One Parkton Ave.
Greenwood, SC 29647
800-845-3369
www.parkseed.com
Online and print catalog free.
Raintree Nursery
391 Butts Rd.
Morton, WA 98356
800-391-8892
www.raintreenursery.com
Catalog free.
Renee’s Garden Seeds
6060 Graham Hill Rd., Suite A
Felton, CA 95018
888-880-7228
www.reneesgarden.com
Online catalog only.
John Scheepers, Inc.
23 Tulip Dr.
P.O. Box 638
Bantam, CT 06750
800-567-0838
www.johnscheepers.com
Free catalog.
Seed Savers Exchange
3094 North Winn Rd.
Decorah, IA 52101
563-382-5990
www.seedsavers.org
Online catalog and free print catalog.
Seeds of Change
P.O. Box 4908
Rancho Dominguez, CA 90220
888-762-7333
www.seedsofchange.com
Catalog free.
Select Seeds
180 Stickney Hill Rd.
Union, CT 06076
800-684-0395
www.selectseeds.com
Online catalog and free print catalog.
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
P.O. Box 460
Mineral, VA 23117
540-894-9480
www.southernexposure.com
Online catalog and free print catalog.
Stark Bro’s Nurseries & Orchards Co.
P.O. Box 1800
Louisiana, MO 63353
800-325-4180
www.starkbros.com
Catalog free.
Territorial Seed Company
P.O. Box 158
Cottage Grove, OR 97424
800-626-0866
www.territorial-seed.com
Catalog free.
Thompson & Morgan Seedsmen Inc.
P.O Box 397
Aurora, IN 47001-0397
800-274-7333
http://www.tmseeds.com/catalog_request
Catalog free. 
Tomato Growers Supply Company
P.O. Box 60015
Fort Myers, FL 33906
888-478-7333
www.tomatogrowers.com
Catalog for U.S. only (free)
Tomato Fest
P.O. Box 628
Little River, CA 95456
https://store.tomatofest.com/
Free online catalog.
Totally Tomatoes
334 W. Stroud St.
Randolph, WI 53956
800-345-5977
www.totallytomato.com
Free online catalog.
Tulip World
8480 North 87th St.
Milwaukee, WI 53223
866-688-9547
www.tulipworld.com
Veseys Seeds
P.O. Box 9000
Charlottetown, PE C1A 8K6
also:
P.O. Box 9000
Calais, ME 04619
800-363-7333
www.veseys.com
Free catalog.
Victory Seed Company
P.O. Box 192
Molalla, OR 97038
503-829-3126
www.victoryseeds.com
Online catalog and $2 print catalog.
Wayside Gardens
One Garden Ln.
Hodges, SC 29653
800-845-1124
www.waysidegardens.com
Online catalog and free print catalog.
White Flower Farm
P.O. Box 50
Litchfield, CT 06759-0050
800-503-9624
www.whiteflowerfarm.com
Online catalog and free print catalog.
Excerpt from Old Farmers Almanac
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growing and caring for amaryllis

12/12/2016

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Amaryllis (Hippeastrum species) are popular for their 6 to 10 inch trumpet shaped flowers that are born on 1 to 2 foot stalks (scapes). Although red and scarlet are the most popular colors, the flowers may be pink, white, salmon, apricot, rose, bicolor or picotee (petals with a different edge color) and in both single and double forms. Because they can produce flowers in mid-winter, they are prized for the color they add to indoor landscapes.

Amaryllis may be purchased as bulbs or plants, in or near bloom. Blooming plants are often given and received as gifts. Amaryllis plants should be kept out of direct sunlight while they are in flower to prolong the life of the flowers.

Selecting and planting bulbs
When growing amaryllis from bulbs, careful selection of the bulbs is important because the plant's performance is influenced by both the size and condition of the bulb. It is best to select the largest bulbs available as they will produce more stalks and blooms the first year. The bulbs should be firm and dry with no signs of mold, decay or injury.

Select a container that is deep enough to allow adequate room for good root development and has provisions for drainage. The diameter of the pot should be about ONE inch larger than that of the bulb. Although this may seem small, amarylis bulbs prefer a smaller container. Select a potting medium that has a high organic matter, but drains well. The bulb should be positioned so that at least one-third, preferably one-half, of the bulb is above the surface of the potting medium. Firm the potting medium around the bulb, water it thoroughly and place the container in a warm, sunny spot. Do not fertilize the bulb until it begins to grow. After growth appears, it is essential to fertilize the plants regularly with a fertilizer that has high phosphorus content. Move the plant out of direct sunlight when the flower buds have begun to show color.

After-flowering care
The secret to successfully growing amaryllis is to keep the plants actively growing after they have finished blooming. After the flowers have faded, cut them off to prevent seed formation. Do not remove the flower stalk until it has turned yellow; it will help manufacture food that will be stored in the bulb. If the bulb does not produce a flowering stalk the next blooming period, it has not stored enough nutrients during the post-blooming period. It is important that amaryllis receive plenty of bright sunlight after they have finished blooming so place it in the brightest possible location indoors. Water the plant from the top of the container thoroughly whenever the top 2 inches of the soil is dry to the touch. Empty any excess water that drains from the pot as wet soil will promote root and bulb rot. Continue to fertilize the plant regularly.

When all danger of frost is past, acclimate the plant to the outdoors by first placing it in shade or indirect light. Gradually move it to a bright garden or bed where it will receive full sun for at least 6 hours daily. Sink the pot into the soil and fertilize with a balanced houseplant fertilizer monthly to build up nutrients for flower production the next year. Amaryllis plants should be brought indoors before the first frost in the fall.

Amaryllis do not require a resting period and will bloom if kept evergreen. However, blooming time can be controlled by allowing the bulb to go through a resting period. After bringing the potted plants indoors, store them in a dark place like a basement or cool closet (above freezing) and do not water. Do not remove the foliage until it has become dry and shriveled. The bulbs can be forced into bloom again after resting for 8 to 12 weeks. Inspect the bulbs periodically and bring them into light if new growth appears. If no new growth appears, they can be forced to bloom by bringing them into bright light and watering the soil thoroughly. Usually one or more flower stalks appear first, but occasionally they are preceded by leaves. Flowers usually develop in about 4-6 weeks from dormant bulbs, so they can be timed to flower at Christmas or for Valentine's Day.

Amaryllis plants bloom best when they are potbound so they will require repotting only every 3 or 4 years. The best time to repot them is after they have gone through a dormant period, and you are bringing them up from the basement to reflower. Follow the same potting procedure as with a newly purchased bulb.

Pests and disease
Although there are several insects, mites and disease organisms that may attack amaryllis plants under greenhouse conditions, they are not as prevalent on amaryllis grown in homes. Careful inspection when purchasing bulbs accompanied by proper watering and good sanitation practices will prevent most insect infestations as well as the development of diseases.

The narcissus bulb fly (Merodon spp.) may lay its eggs in the bulbs of amaryllis plants that are placed outdoors for the summer. The maggot larvae begin to feed in the outer scales of the bulb and eventually work their way into the interior of the bulb. The foliage of infested plants may become wilted, yellow and distorted and the plant will eventually die. The exterior of the bulb may appear normal, but will reveal rotting tissue when pressed. Because control is difficult, it is best to destroy any infested bulbs as soon as the pest is identified. Use of insecticides is generally ineffective.

Red blotch (Stagonospora curtissi) is a fungus disease that may affect both the appearance and the health of amaryllis plants. Red spots or blotches that develop into elongated cankers with red borders may develop on the base of the flower stalks and emerging leaves. The disease is often difficult to diagnose because small red or pink patches may appear on the outside of healthy bulbs. These marks should, however, be superficial with the fleshy layers beneath white and free of markings of any kind. Although the leaves may become distorted and the flower stalks may break easily making the plants unsightly, the disease is usually not fatal to the plant. Careful inspection of bulbs and the use of sterile potting mixtures will serve as preventative measures. If the disease persists even with good cultural and sanitation practices, the bulbs can be treated with a systemic fungicide.

Amaryllis require some care and attention throughout the year, but those beautiful trumpet shaped flowers are a great reward in the long months of winter.

Source: Carl Hoffman
              Mary Meyer
              University of Minnesota Extension
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Preparing to plant peas

12/12/2016

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Peas are everyone's garden favorite. There's nothing like the taste of fresh sweet peas in spring. Here's some history and tips on planting peas.

A Brief History of Peas:
Northerners and southerners have different ideas about the meaning of the word "pea." To southerners, peas are black-eyeds, crowders and creams; to northerners, these same varieties are known as shell beans. The northern version of "peas" is known as English or green peas, and if you ask home gardeners to name their favorite vegetable, many will say green peas.

Garden peas originated in western Asia and Eastern Europe. We know they existed as far back as the Stone Age, because dried pea seeds were discovered among relics in lake villages of Switzerland. Apparently 1,000 years ago the pea, which was small and dark colored, was grown only for its dried seeds. At the turn of the millennium, people started eating them fresh, too.

The popularity of peas increased during the 18th century. The Anglo-Saxon word for peas was "pise," later to be called "pease," but nobody knew whether that referred to one pea or many. So, the word "peas" was coined. Because our green garden peas were derived from varieties that thrived in England, they are called "English peas."

Planting Peas
When you're deciding where to plant which vegetable, there are two good reasons why it's a good idea to locate your peas in a section that receives full sun:
  • Sunny spots will be the first places to thaw in the spring, and you want to get your peas into the ground as early as possible.
  • If peas are planted in the shade, they'll grow. However, the sugar content will be low, and the peas will taste as if they've been sitting around at the store for a few weeks.
  • Although peas do need full sun, be careful not to plant the tall varieties where they'll shade other plants.

No matter what size your garden, you'll have the best results if you plant peas in 16-inch-wide rows with walkways at least the same width. Not only will you harvest more, but you'll put less time and work into your crop. For most varieties, if you plant in wide rows there's no need to build trellises or fences for support, because the vines hold each other up. Also, wide-row vines form a living- mulch canopy that helps to eliminate weeds and keeps the soil cool and moist.

When To Plant Peas
Peas are a cool-weather crop that can withstand frost. Northern gardeners can often plant their first crop near the end of March, as soon as the garden has thawed and the soil can be worked. A few varieties, however, are happier being planted when it's warmer and harvested during midsummer. Seed catalogs and packets indicate the preferred time for planting different varieties.

In the Far North, garden peas can be harvested almost all summer if you use a little ingenuity. Plant peas every three to four weeks for a continual summer harvest. Once you've harvested your first crop of peas, pull out and compost the vines or till them in and replant a second crop of peas in the same space. Or you can plant another short-season vegetable.

In the West, gardeners can harvest peas year-round; in the South they're best if grown in the fall, winter and very early spring before the weather gets too hot.

Source: National Garden Association
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Cleaning Garden Pots and Tools

12/1/2016

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The Importance of Garden Pot Cleaning
Soil builds up salt that can damage plants. These salts get deposited on the inside of planters. Any diseases your plants may have had last season can get transferred to your new plants. Clean used flower pots before using them again. Garden pot cleaning only takes a few minutes, ​but it can keep your plants healthy and productive.

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Natural ways to protect your garden & gardening tools with white distilled vinegar:
  • Kill weeds and grass growing in unwanted places by pouring full-strength white distilled vinegar on them.
  • This works especially well in crevices and cracks of walkways and drive ways.
  • Stops ants from congregating by pouring white distilled vinegar on the area.
  • Get rid of the water line in a flower vase by filling it with a solution of half water and half white vinegar.
  • Clean out stains and white mineral crusts in clay, glazed and plastic pots by soaking them for an hour or longer in a sink filled with a solution of half water and half white distilled vinegar.
  • Clean a birdbath by scrubbing it often with undiluted white distilled vinegar.
  • Remove berry stains on your hands by rubbing them with white distilled vinegar.
  • Clean a hummingbird feeder with white distilled vinegar.
  • Clean tools: Soak tools in undiluted vinegar and they will be cleaned, degreased and shine brightly.

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Baking Soda
As a Garden Grime Buster: Rub baking soda on wet hands after gardening. Rinse well.
To Clean Bird Baths and Clay Pots:
  • Use as an effective tool for cleaning a bird bath without toxic chemicals.
  • After putting baking powder on it, use a damp cloth to get rid of dirt and then rinse with water.
  • You can also use baking powder to clean clay flower pots completely and rinse well. No harmful residue will be absorbed by the clay.

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Cleaning Garden Tools
Before disinfection, tools should be free of dirt and debris.
Disinfecting solutions should not be allowed to contaminate the soil.

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The use of chlorine bleach is not recommended for disinfection use in the field for a variety of reasons:
  • Bleach is an oxidizing agent, which means it is corrosive.
  • Tool damage: prolonged contact with metal may cause pitting or discoloration.
  • Clothing damage
  • Human health damage: contact with bleach can irritate your skin, nose, throat and lungs if vapors are inhaled. Medical conditions such as asthma, chronic bronchitis, and obstructive lung disease are aggravated.
  • Plant health damage: Bleach is extremely phytotoxic, more so than any of the other commonly used disinfectants.
  • Any bleach left on your tools will damage the tissue of the next cut.

Other disinfectant treatments have included:
  • Alcohol dips (ethanol or isopropyl alcohol): Alcohols are readily available and, moderately safe and effective to use. They can be expensive to use.
  • Household cleaners (Listerine, Lysol, Pine-Sol): Readily available, moderately safe, can be extremely effective.
  • Lysol (the original, phenol-based material) in particular was found to be the least corrosive to pruning tools.
  • Hydrogen peroxide is an environmentally safe alternative to chlorine-based bleaches as it breaks down into water and oxygen. Commercially available 3% hydrogen peroxide is considered a stable and effective disinfectant by the CDC when used on inanimate objects. Under normal conditions, hydrogen peroxide is extremely stable when properly stored, Be aware hydrogen peroxide is extremely light sensitive and potency is reduced over time when not stored in dark containers.
The Bottom Line
  • Choose a disinfectant that is effective, readily available and affordable, relatively safe to handle, and won't harm your tools or clothing. Many household cleaners fit this description.
  • Be sure to clean tools of dirt, debris, etc. before disinfecting
  • Other options include keeping a small spray can of Lysol or a small bottle of rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide in your gardening bucket with some clean old rags.
  • After dipping your pruning tools, be sure to wipe away excess disinfectant to avoid injuring the next plant.
  • A longer soaking period may be needed for pruning surfaces that are not smooth.
  • ​Never use disinfectants on pruning wounds; they are phytotoxic and cause more harm than good.
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