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Welcome to the Gardening from the Ground Up! Video Series This series of 3-5 minute videos will walk you through how to create a basic traditional tilled garden spot in your landscape. University of Arkansas System, Division of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service County Agents Brad Runsick (Baxter County); Cody Tyler (Fulton County); and Cory Stroud (Sharp County) will take you from breaking ground the first time; to planting; to basic care and maintenance; and all the way up to the harvest. The recommendations we make along the way are research-based, reliable management decisions that will ensure both the success of your new garden as well as the safety of the food you produce. Topics discussed through this series will be somewhat general, since not all situation and growing seasons are alike. For specific recommendations, reach out to your local county extension office. www.uaex.uada.edu/counties Check out Episode #1: "Location, location, location"
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On Thursday, October 25, the Project Tour for the new class was a day with on and off drizzle and yet look at all those smiles. Three class members from Baxter County and two from West Plains participated in the tour. Bull Shoals-White River State Park Gardens Cooper Park Gardens Clysta Willett Nature Trail Extension Office Gardens Baxter County Fairgrounds Garden Library Pollinator Garden Memorial Gardens Fish Hatchery Gardens Many gardeners view shade as a challenging situation for growing plants. While some plants do not grow well in low light, numerous others thrive under these conditions. Just as moisture, temperature, and soil conditions may limit plant growth, the amount of shade present may determine which plants will grow successfully. The key is to discover which ones are adapted to the conditions in your yard or garden. Landscapes change their degree of shade over time. As trees and shrubs mature, the landscape receives greater shade. What was once a sunny garden may evolve into a shady one. Analyze the degree of shade in your garden periodically to determine if changes in plant materials may be needed due to increased shade from a maturing landscape. Several characteristics typify shade gardening. In addition to low light levels, plants growing in the shade must compete with shading trees for nutrients and water, and tolerate poor air circulation. The best way to cope with low light levels is to choose plants that do well in less light. Light shade may be described as an area that is shaded but bright. It may be completely shaded for only several hours each day. The sun's rays may be blocked by a wall or building for several hours at midday, but the area is sunny the rest of the day. Light shade may also be found in areas that receive filtered or dappled sunlight for longer periods. Edges of shady gardens or areas under the canopy of solitary, lightly branched trees are typical of filtered sunlight. During the heat of summer, light shade at midday will provide a beneficial cooling effect. Flower and foliage color may be more brilliant when plants are shielded from intense midday sunlight. Partial or medium shade is present when direct sun rays are blocked from an area for most of the day. Many established landscapes have large areas of partial shade, where sections of the yard are shaded by mature trees for much of the day but receive some direct sun early or late in the day. Bright, north-facing exposures may also be classified as medium shade. Full shade lasts all day. Little or no direct sunlight reaches the ground at any time of the day. There may be reflected light from sunnier areas of the yard or off light-colored walls. Dense shade refers to full shade under thick tree canopies or in dense groves of trees. Areas under stairways, decks or covered patios on the north side of the house receive full shade. Keep in mind that light patterns change with the seasons. An area that is in full sun in summer when the sun is high in the sky may have medium shade in spring and fall, when the sun is at a lower angle. Study your garden through the seasons to accurately determine what type of shade is present. Available sunlight may be increased by selective pruning. Removal of lower limbs on large trees may increase light levels significantly. Large shade trees are a valuable resource that in most cases should be preserved. However, removal of diseased, unattractive, or poorly placed trees improves the beauty of your property and increases the light available for plant growth. Take advantage of reflected light, if possible. White or light-colored surfaces reflect more light than dark-colored ones. Light-colored house siding or fences may increase available light to plants. Plants growing in the shade often must also compete with roots of shading trees for nutrients and moisture. Shallow rooted trees such as maples and willows are particularly troublesome. Adding organic matter to shade garden soils will help. Most woodland species are accustomed to growing in soils rich in leaf litter compost. Raking and removal of leaves each fall in the typical landscape disrupts this natural nutrient recycling process. If leaves are not removed, they can mat down and smother shade garden plants, but shredded leaves can be safely applied as a mulch. Another option is to compost the leaves first, and apply the compost in core aeration holes or in small pockets dug into the garden. Do not haul in several inches of compost-rich amendment to till into soil under shade trees. Some species, such as oaks, are extremely sensitive to changes in soil depth within their root zone. In addition, tillage will damage many of the tree's roots, starting a decline from which the tree may never recover. If the gardener is patient, earthworms will eventually incorporate surface-applied organic matter. Organic matter loosens heavy clay soils, improving drainage. In sandy soils, organic matter will increase the water-holding capacity. As organic matter breaks down, it also releases nutrients to the plants. Roots competing for limited surface water may cause shade gardens to dry out more quickly than sunny sites during extended dry periods. Some shade-tolerant plants are adapted to low moisture situations, while others require moist shade. Provide water according to the plants' needs. Branches or walls that cast shade also block air movement. Poor air circulation coupled with lower light levels means foliage of plants stays wet longer in the shade than in sunny areas. Most plant disease problems are worse under these conditions. Prevent disease problems by selecting disease-resistant varieties when available. Space plants farther apart in the shade to allow more air movement around each individual plant. Water with soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems to avoid wetting the foliage. Removal of lower tree limbs may funnel breezes underneath the tree canopy, thereby improving air circulation. Bright, bold colors are less common in shade tolerant plants than in sun-loving ones. Flowers are usually produced less abundantly in the shade as well. For these reasons, shade gardens are often more subtle and restful than sunny ones. Plant textures, forms, and slight color differences become more important elements of the design. Texture has many aspects. Large-leaved plants such as hostas have a coarse texture, while finely divided fern fronds create a fine texture. Strong contrasts in texture accentuate their differences. Use strong textural contrasts only where emphasis is needed. Pyramidal or upright, columnar plant forms serve best as accents in the shade. Rounded, weeping, or spreading forms create a more spacious effect and can be used more liberally in the design. Glossy leaves have more impact than dull or velvety ones. Variegated or yellow-green foliage is evident in the shade more than solid green or blue-green foliage. Light colors — white, cream, yellow and pastel pink — stand out in the shade. Deep reds, blues and purples may fade into the shade unless set off by a contrasting lighter color. To emphasize plantings in the shade, concentrate on plants with light-colored flowers or foliage. Almost all food crops grow best in sunny locations. Not only do they need full sunlight for good growth, few tolerate root competition from trees. Cool-season salad vegetables such as lettuce, spinach and radishes may benefit from light shading through the heat of the summer. Beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, peas, potatoes, rhubarb and turnips will grow in light shade but not produce as large a crop as plants growing in full sun. Currants and gooseberries are fruits which tolerate medium shade and still produce a crop. Bramble fruits such as blackberries and raspberries grow in light shade, but yields will be reduced. Source: Christoper J. Starbuck
Department of Horticulture University of Missouri Extension Whether you've been babying seedlings along under grow lights or overwintering a few tender perennials you couldn't let go of last fall, it's time to start getting them outside. But you can't just chuck them out there as soon as the ground begins to thaw. Plants that have been indoors need to be acclimated to the fluctuating temperatures, wind and sunlight. In other words you need to harden them off. It's a simple process of gradually increasing the amount of time they're outside, usually by taking flats or pots in and out of the house. As plants spend more time outside, stems get stronger and their leaves develop a thicker cuticle, the waxy covering on the surface of a leaf that prevents water loss. this helps them tolerate more varied weather conditions. WHEN TO GET STARTED First decide when you want to put your plants in the garden and back up a couple weeks from there to know when to start hardening off. Tender plants' planting date will be determined by your likely last frost date. If you don't know when your last frost date is check with your local county extension agency. Cool weather types such as pansies tolerate temperatures in the 40-degree F range so you can plant a month before your likely last frost date. House plants, tropicals and warm season vegetables, such as tomatoes, prefer days at 70 degrees F (or warmer) and nights in the 50's. Seedlings should have at least four to six sets of true leaves before going out. WHERE TO PUT PLANTS Start plants in a protected spot out of direct sunlight and strong wind for an hour or two in mid-afternoon to avoid shock. Examples include under a tree, next to a hedge and near the wall of the house or garage. Bring plants inside for the night. Each day increase the time spent outside by 35 to 40 minutes. If there are a few days of bad weather-driving rain or an unexpected cold snap- leave them inside. Once plants are used to being outdoors all days (and mild overnight weather is forecast), pull them into a protected spot out doors for the night, too. Full sun plants will need time to get used to direct sunlight. Start them out in part to full shade on the north side of your house or under a tree. Every couple of days edge them into a bit more light until they are basking in full sun. once plants stay outdoors day or night for three or four days in a row, they're ready to go in the ground. Excerpt from Garden Gate Magazine
You have put your garden at rest for the winter. Now it's time to check out all the seed catalogs and plan your spring garden.
Excerpt from Old Farmers Almanac
The Importance of Garden Pot Cleaning Soil builds up salt that can damage plants. These salts get deposited on the inside of planters. Any diseases your plants may have had last season can get transferred to your new plants. Clean used flower pots before using them again. Garden pot cleaning only takes a few minutes, but it can keep your plants healthy and productive. Natural ways to protect your garden & gardening tools with white distilled vinegar:
Baking Soda As a Garden Grime Buster: Rub baking soda on wet hands after gardening. Rinse well. To Clean Bird Baths and Clay Pots:
Cleaning Garden Tools Before disinfection, tools should be free of dirt and debris. Disinfecting solutions should not be allowed to contaminate the soil. The use of chlorine bleach is not recommended for disinfection use in the field for a variety of reasons:
Other disinfectant treatments have included:
The Bottom Line
As the holidays rapidly approach, the excitement of seeing the first glimpse of decorations causes a stirring in each of us. What better place to extend a first impression with family and friends than at your mailbox. The curb appeal of a decorated mailbox signifies a "warm welcome" with festive glamour! Add a pop of color with annuals or perennials, Vines, ornamental grasses, or shrubs may be used as well to enhance your mailbox decorations and overall landscape of the home. When decorating your mail box, incorporate seasonal color, personality, style and creativity. "Think outside the mailbox" as you spread the joy and excitement to reflect the theme or occasion at hand. It can be as easy as clipping greenery and gathering other natural elements right from the woods or your own backyard. Add some amusement buy making it a family tradition to decorate the mailbox each year. The fun and excitement can extend from season to season and will be sure to set the atmosphere of the holiday. The celebration of winter and Christmas is one of holiday sparkle and beauty.There is no better time to use nature's greenery pine cones, nuts, and berries to decorate your mailbox. Natural twigs, branches, empty bird nests, birdhouses and pine cones are easily "glammed" up by adding paint, glitter or frost. Charming ribbon and beautiful Christmas balls enhance and complete the creation. Easily accessible materials make it simple and less time consuming. Mailbox Musts Before starting your project consider parameters of the mailbox area, Choose plants based on color, height, texture and hardiness.
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